You buy the complete system and servicing from an air-conditioning or heating contractor like Whitehead. Although prices vary from region to region, you should expect to pay at least $3,000 to $8,000 for a package that includes installation and hardware. The larger the house, the higher the cost. Installation is cheapest and simplest if the air-conditioner can be tied into the existing heating duct, even if their vents aren’t optimally positioned to direct cool air into the rooms. But if the contractor has to install ducts, the price will climb. The number of ducts, their size and shape, and the amount of carpentry needed to hide them in walls and ceiling will vary from house to house.

Two factors that matter the most are energy efficiency and cooling capacity. Of the two, efficiency is easier for you to determine. Manufacturers test their central air-conditioners according to Government standards and give them a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER), which lets you compare competing brands for efficiency over an entire cooling season. For systems of the same capacity, the higher the SEER the lower the operating cost. This means a 12 SEER unit uses less electricity than a 10 SEER.

Government standards require any new central system whose compressor is separate from its evaporator to have a SEER of at least 10. The most efficient new models are rated at 18 or more, but some older models still on the market may have a SEER of less than 10.

Cooling capacity is typically measured in “tons” of cooling, where one ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour. Other things being equal, the larger the capacity, the more the equipment costs and the more expensive it will be to run. A unit with too much cooling capacity for the house will cycle on and off more frequently than a properly sized one, and it may not dehumidify the rooms adequately. Researchers at Texas A&M University have found that slightly undersized units are more efficient and better at moisture removal than oversized systems.

With even the most efficient air-conditioner, you can sharply reduce annual operating costs simply by raising the thermostat setting two or three degrees-from 74 to 76 say. That kind of small temperature change shouldn’t cause you noticeable discomfort.

You know how miserable humidity can make you. Well, with a variable speed air handler you can reduce the humidity in your home, giving you and your family a more comfortable environment.

In fact, you’d probably be amazed to find out just how much moisture is in your home. Consider this a humidity control system. This alone could take out several more gallons of water a day.

Contractors use various rules of thumb, such as one ton of capacity for every 600 square feet in a well-insulated house or one ton for every 500 square feet in an under-insulated house. Such rough guides don’t always make allowances for important variables-the amount of sunlight striking a house, the area of exterior walls, the number of windows facing east and west (those windows admit the most intense heat in the summer), and so on.

Formal sizing guides for contractors’ use, such as one published by the Air-Conditioning Contractors of America as “Manual J’ (Load Calculation for Residential Winter and Summer Air-Conditioning), allow for climate, house construction, and other factors.

A good contractor should take the time to calculate cooling capacity with a guide like “Manual J” as part of the bid and to show you room-by-room requirements for cooling load and airflow.

A good contractor will use a recognized set of duct-installation guidelines, such as the Air-Conditioner Contractors’ “Manual D.” Ducts need to be designed to deliver the proper amount of cool ;air to each room and to return a comparable amount of air to the evaporator coil. If the system can’t maintain that balance, rooms won’t cool properly and the air-conditioner may not achieve its maximum efficiency. In extreme cases, the evaporator coil may ice up, causing the cooling to stop and prompting a service call. The material used for the ducts also matters.

Flex duct, rather like an insulated version of the hose used for a clothes-dryer exhaust, is the cheapest and easiest to install but also the most prone to bending, kinking, tearing, or leaking around joints.

Duct board, a rigid fiberglass board with an outer barrier is cut and joined with special tools and tape to make square or rectangular ducts. Duct board is less susceptible to bending or kinking, but any tears in the outer barrier or improperly taped seams can allow cool air to escape.

Galvanized steel duct, usually a combination of prefabricated and custom-made parts for each installation, is generally the most expensive but also the strongest and most durable. It needs to be insulated where it passes through uncooled spaces-after all, you don’t want to pay to air-condition the attic or an unfinished basement.

No matter what material is used, the sections of duct should be firmly connected, not merely held together with duct tape. In order to maintain the proper airflow, ducts should turn corners smoothly, not sharply, and be adequately supported to prevent sagging. Cold air leaking from seams or migrating through the duct walls can drastically increase overall operating costs.

Even the most watchful home-owner can’t be sure the contractor has handled every part of the installation properly. Your best protection against faulty design or installation is monetary: Make the final payment to the contractor only after the system is installed and you’re sure it runs properly.

The easiest and most obvious answer to this is, “Wherever you are comfortable.” Most energy providers, government agencies and manufacturers recommend summertime settings between 76° and 78° and winter settings between 68° and 70° for optimum energy savings. Most people will be comfortable if their humidity is kept in check and their home is well insulated and sealed to prevent outdoor air infiltration.

Consider factors such as the age of the unit, frequency of repairs, energy efficiency, and cost of replacement when deciding whether to repair or replace your air conditioner. A professional HVAC technician can provide guidance based on your specific situation.

Use ceiling fans to circulate air, close blinds or curtains during the hottest part of the day, and consider upgrading to a more energy-efficient air conditioning system.

Check for issues such as tripped circuit breakers, clogged air filters, and thermostat settings before contacting a professional technician for further assistance.

A good contractor will use a recognized set of duct-installation guidelines, such as the Air-Conditioner Contractors’ “Manual D.” Ducts need to be designed to deliver the proper amount of cool ;air to each room and to return a comparable amount of air to the evaporator coil. If the system can’t maintain that balance, rooms won’t cool properly and the air-conditioner may not achieve its maximum efficiency. In extreme cases, the evaporator coil may ice up, causing the cooling to stop and prompting a service call. The material used for the ducts also matters.

Flex duct, rather like an insulated version of the hose used for a clothes-dryer exhaust, is the cheapest and easiest to install but also the most prone to bending, kinking, tearing, or leaking around joints.

Duct board, a rigid fiberglass board with an outer barrier is cut and joined with special tools and tape to make square or rectangular ducts. Duct board is less susceptible to bending or kinking, but any tears in the outer barrier or improperly taped seams can allow cool air to escape.

Galvanized steel duct, usually a combination of prefabricated and custom-made parts for each installation, is generally the most expensive but also the strongest and most durable. It needs to be insulated where it passes through uncooled spaces-after all, you don’t want to pay to air-condition the attic or an unfinished basement.

No matter what material is used, the sections of duct should be firmly connected, not merely held together with duct tape. In order to maintain the proper airflow, ducts should turn corners smoothly, not sharply, and be adequately supported to prevent sagging. Cold air leaking from seams or migrating through the duct walls can drastically increase overall operating costs.

Even the most watchful home-owner can’t be sure the contractor has handled every part of the installation properly. Your best protection against faulty design or installation is monetary: Make the final payment to the contractor only after the system is installed and you’re sure it runs properly.

A good contractor will use a recognized set of duct-installation guidelines, such as the Air-Conditioner Contractors’ “Manual D.” Ducts need to be designed to deliver the proper amount of cool ;air to each room and to return a comparable amount of air to the evaporator coil. If the system can’t maintain that balance, rooms won’t cool properly and the air-conditioner may not achieve its maximum efficiency. In extreme cases, the evaporator coil may ice up, causing the cooling to stop and prompting a service call. The material used for the ducts also matters.

Flex duct, rather like an insulated version of the hose used for a clothes-dryer exhaust, is the cheapest and easiest to install but also the most prone to bending, kinking, tearing, or leaking around joints.

Duct board, a rigid fiberglass board with an outer barrier is cut and joined with special tools and tape to make square or rectangular ducts. Duct board is less susceptible to bending or kinking, but any tears in the outer barrier or improperly taped seams can allow cool air to escape.

Galvanized steel duct, usually a combination of prefabricated and custom-made parts for each installation, is generally the most expensive but also the strongest and most durable. It needs to be insulated where it passes through uncooled spaces-after all, you don’t want to pay to air-condition the attic or an unfinished basement.

No matter what material is used, the sections of duct should be firmly connected, not merely held together with duct tape. In order to maintain the proper airflow, ducts should turn corners smoothly, not sharply, and be adequately supported to prevent sagging. Cold air leaking from seams or migrating through the duct walls can drastically increase overall operating costs.

Even the most watchful home-owner can’t be sure the contractor has handled every part of the installation properly. Your best protection against faulty design or installation is monetary: Make the final payment to the contractor only after the system is installed and you’re sure it runs properly.

Look out for signs such as slow draining sinks, low water pressure, unusual sounds coming from pipes, water stains on walls or ceilings, and foul odors.

It's recommended to have a professional plumbing inspection at least once a year to catch any potential issues before they escalate.

Shut off the main water supply immediately to prevent further damage, and then contact a licensed plumber for assistance.

Avoid putting grease, oil, coffee grounds, and other debris down the drain. Use drain guards or screens to catch hair and other particles.

Regularly flush the water heater to remove sediment buildup, check for leaks or rust, and have it professionally inspected annually.

Check for any leaks in your plumbing system, clean out aerators on faucets, and consider installing a water pressure booster pump if necessary.

Check the flapper valve and flush handle for any issues, and if needed, replace them. If the problem persists, it may be due to a more serious issue that requires professional attention.

Consider installing low-flow toilets and showerheads, as well as tankless water heaters, to conserve water and energy.

The need for a permit depends on the type of repair or installation being done and local regulations. It's best to check with your local authorities or consult with a licensed plumber.

No. Unless there is a break in the line that needs to be tied back together.

Our team does not install irrigation systems.

An irrigation system is a method used to supply water to crops, plants and grass to help them grow. It's essential in areas where rainfall is insufficient or unreliable for agriculture. The system can range from simple, manual methods like watering cans to highly sophisticated automated systems using pumps, pipes, valves, and sprinklers or drip emitters to distribute water efficiently across fields or gardens. Irrigation systems can be designed to deliver water at specific times and rates, optimizing water usage and promoting plant health and growth.

Whitehead does install Reduced Pressure Zone devices. RPZ is a type of backflow prevention device used in plumbing systems to protect against the contamination of potable water supplies. Backflow occurs when water flows backward into the main water supply system, potentially bringing contaminants or pollutants with it. Price varies depending on the size needed. The price includes testing and certification. We send the results to the city on the customers’ behalf.

Price: $175.00 for standard test.

Yes, we can help with lift stations. But we do not help with pumping out the tank.

Yes, we can help with lift station installations. This requires an estimate with our construction/renovation department. Call our office to schedule an appointment!

Yes, we help with bathtub plumbing repairs, maintenance, and new installations.

Yes, we help with bathtub plumbing repairs, maintenance, and new installations. This requires an estimate with our Construction/Renovation Department so contact our team now to schedule a service appointment.

We also install whirlpool tubs and help with whirlpool faucet repairs. We do not work on whirlpool pumps or jets.

Our team at Whitehead does not provide hot tub repairs or installations.

Absolutely! Our plumbers are experts and can help with sewer line issues. Call us to schedule a service appointment.

Our team only works on the lines going from the home to the septic tank. We do not directly service septic tanks.

Yes, we can help with repairs. However, we cannot pump the tanks.

We only work on gas tankless water heaters. We are unable to service electric tankless water heaters.

Absolutely! Click here to learn more about water jetting services.

Our team is here to help with all your plumbing and HVAC needs. Please note that a service fee applies for our HVAC team to assess your system. A professional Whitehead technician will evaluate the issue, determine the best solution, and provide an estimate for the repair.

If you live in a condo and need HVAC or plumbing help, Whitehead is here for you. However, there is an additional $350.00 Liability Condo Fee for Service Calls.